Fashion is a wonderful thing; it comes and goes like the seasons. And right now it’s treating the men’s hair industry to some impeccable styles. In particular, the classic, slicked-back looks of the 1950s. But while these classic styles possess kudos among barbers, modern men’s fashion has forced them to evolve.
One evolution is the disconnected slick-back. This adaptation is a style that’s versatile enough to be worn in the office and out on the town. It can be worn messy with texture, height and a matt finish, or tight with a traditional wet-look.
The Bluebeards Revenge has teamed up with industry-leading barber, and founder of the Lions Barber Collective, Tom Chapman to give you the definitive barbering guide on how to cut and style a disconnected slick-back. The Devon-based barber has even added a burst fade to make this a truly unique collaboration.
Combine our barber to barber video with Tom’s expert tips below to give your clients a modern slick-back look to be proud of.
Before I reach for my scissors and clippers, I like to start by washing my client’s hair. This removes any products they may have used over the last few days and makes the hair much easier to work with. The Bluebeards Revenge Shampoo and Conditioner are always favourites among my clients. People always comment on the classic barber shop scent the products give off, as well as how clean and soft their hair feels afterwards.
Parting the hair
While the hair is still wet use The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Paste as a pre-styling agent, then use your client’s natural parting to establish a disconnection and clip the hair on top of the head out of the way for now.
Creating the disconnected slick-back
Starting at the temples, put in your grade two blank canvas graduating out more towards the neck so that you’re ready to blend it into the back for a good shape. Next, release the top and establish a profile section to create a guide from long to short towards the nape.
To give the cut some shape to work with, dry off any excess pre-styling paste and add texture to the hair with The Bluebeards Revenge Quiff Roller. Using horizontal sections and the established guide, elevate to 90-degrees and remove the corners to create a triangle-like shape through the top on the hair. Then reduce the weight on the sides.
Creating the burst fade
To style the burst fade, put in your shortest grade around the ear in a circular shape to create a guide. Then, work up through the grades to remove all the weight and create a smoother transition while maintaining the shape of the guide. Finally, line up with trimmers and blend the top from behind the ear and into the back.
With this cut I have opted for a modern matt finish, so start by dampening the hair before drying it backwards with a flat brush. Then, for a style that can be remoulded all day long, take a small amount of The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Paste in your palms and run it through the hair. To add a little extra texture, scrunch a little into the tips.